Bow Anatomy

Limbs — these are the parts of the bow that impart power to the string and the arrow.

Riser / grip — the center portion of the bow.

Arrow rest — this is where the arrow is placed on the bow when it is shot. The area of the bow that is cut out for the arrow rest is known as the “sight window”. You will also notice a dark triangular plate adjacent to the arrow rest — this is called the strike plate, and it protects the bow from wear.

Serving — string that is wrapped around the bowstring to protect it from wear.

Bowstring — the string that the arrow fits onto.

String grove — the groves that the bowstring fits into.

Brace height — the distance between the throat of the bow (the part of the riser or grip that is furthest from the bowstring) and the bowstring. Brace height is best measured with a t-square.

Nock point — a consistent point where the archer places their arrow when shooting the bow.

ARCHERY SAFETY

  1. Bows are lethal weapons. Never draw your bow and aim it at anything you do not intend to shoot.
  2. Know your target and what is behind it. Your arrow may pass through your target striking people, animals or objects behind it. Your arrow may also glance off the target and launch in various angles, striking unintended people, animals, or objects.
  3. Always wear an armguard when shooting your bow. Even if you rarely strike your forearm it can happen to even the best archers and the injuries can be severe.
  4. Never dry fire your bow (release the string without an arrow nocked).
  5. Always check your bows and arrows for signs of damage. If you see damage or hear cracking sounds immediately stop and check your equipment.

Types of Bows

Self bow — a bow made from a single type of material, usually wood.

Composite bow — a bow made from several different types of material. Most bows are composite bows, and they are usually made out of fiberglass and wood, or metal.

Recurve — short bows that have limb tips that curve outward, away from the archer. These bows shoot arrows very fast and work best with light arrows. Recurves are some of the most popular bows used in the archery world.

Longbow — a long sturdy bow that is about the height of an average man.

Compound bow — compound bows are a more recent invention that use a system of pulleys or cams to make drawing the bow easier. Compound bows are usually more powerful than traditional bows (recurve bows / longbows). These bows are popular with many hunters.

Crossbow — a short powerful bow on a stock. Crossbows operate in a similar manner to firearms and often require pulleys or cranks to draw or “cock” them. Crossbows are usually much more powerful than traditional bows and even compound bows, but their rate of fire is lower.

Bow Poundage

Bow poundage indicates how powerful the bow is — that is, how much energy the bow imparts to the arrow when it is shot.

(NOTE: Pounds is abbreviated as #)

30 – 40 pounds is required for hunting. Some states place the minimum at 30, some 35, some 40. We wouldn’t recommend hunting game over 20 pounds with anything under a 35# bow. 50# is needed for game bigger than a white tail deer. Broadheads are necessary for hunting, hunting with anything besides a broadhead is inhumane.

Adult target shooters commonly use 35 pounds, sometimes less, rarely more.

Putting on a longer string will not lower the weight or poundage of the bow. Using a longer string will, however, lower the brace height of the bow. Lower brace height may increase the speed or power of the arrow, but it may result in a decrease in accuracy.

Bow Length

In archery, the terms “AMO” and “actual length” refer to two different measurements associated with the bow.

AMO Length: AMO stands for “Archery Manufacturers Organization”, which is now the “Archery Trade Association”. AMO length is a standardized measurement used by manufacturers to indicate the length of a bow. It is also known as the “bow length” or “manufacturer’s length.” AMO length is typically measured along the bow’s back (the side facing away from the archer) from the string groove of the nock to the bow’s throat or pivot point. AMO is often written as follows on the bottom bow limb, with the first number indicating the AMO and the second number indicating the bow poundage: 60″ / 40#.

The AMO length is useful for comparing and selecting accessories (such as bowstrings) that are compatible with a specific bow. When purchasing items like bowstrings or other bow accessories, it’s important to match them with the AMO length specified for the bow.

Actual Length: The actual length of a bow refers to the physical measurement of the bow from tip to tip, following the curvature of the bow limbs. It represents the entire length of the bow, including any curved or bending sections. The actual length may differ from the AMO length due to variations in design, limb shape, and manufacturing techniques.

The actual length is significant for archers as it influences the bow’s performance and characteristics. Longer bows, for example, tend to offer more stability, a smoother draw, and improved accuracy, while shorter bows are generally more maneuverable and easier to transport.

It’s important to note that when referencing bow length, context is crucial. If someone mentions the “length” of a bow without specifying whether it’s the AMO length or actual length, it’s advisable to seek clarification to avoid any confusion.

When purchasing a bow or discussing its specifications, understanding both the AMO length and the actual length can help ensure you select the appropriate equipment and have a clear understanding of the bow’s characteristics.

Bowstring Info

There are two types of bowstrings commonly used in traditional archery: Flemish twist and endless loop. The Flemish twist bowstring features braided loops at each end, providing it with a visually appealing traditional appearance. On the other hand, an endless-loop bowstring has loops created by wrapping serving material, a braided string, around the bowstring itself.

Many traditional archers appreciate the aesthetic appeal of Flemish twist bowstrings because they are attractive and in line with the history of archery. Conversely, many Olympic target archers or no-nonsense hunters tend to favor endless-loop bowstrings due to their precise construction, which is particularly beneficial when aiming for accuracy in competitive target shooting.

A bow string is typically 3 to 4 inches shorter than the bow’s AMO length. (Note: strings are usually 3 inches shorter for longbows, and 3 to 4 inches shorter for recurves [typically 4 inches shorter].) For example, if you have a recurve with an AMO length of 60″, a bowstring that is 56″ should work best.

Bowstrings are made of different materials and have different numbers of strands. The three most common types of string for traditional archery are:

B50 Dacron is a polyester or PET fiber blend string. B-50 Dacron is recommended for use with older bows. B-50 Dacron is the stretchiest type of bowstring, meaning it creates less shock than other strings. B-50 Dacron is usually thicker too, and it may not last as long as newer types of string.

B-55 Dacron is the new version of B-50 Dacron. It is another polyester / PET fiber string that provides the same amount of power but it does not stretch as much permanently as B-50. B-55 Dacron is made of tougher polyester fibers that tend to last longer, as well.

D-97 bowstrings are made from a blend of Dyneema and Spectra fibers. Dyneema and Spectra are high-strength, low-stretch synthetic fibers. The reduced stretch of D-97 contributes to improved energy transfer and more efficient arrow flight. B-55 Dacron strings are typically thicker compared to D-97 strings. The thinner profile of D-97 strings can result in reduced friction, improved arrow speed, and potentially better arrow grouping. However, the thinner diameter may also make D-97 strings slightly more susceptible to abrasion or wear, requiring proper maintenance and care. D-97 strings are typically more expensive than B-50 or B-55 Dacron strings. Hunters tend to prefer D-97 strings because they offer the best of both worlds (low vibration and flat trajectory).

Fast flight (aka 652 or abbreviated FF) strings have the least stretchiness, meaning they impart more power and speed to the arrow. A downside to FF strings is that they cause more shock and vibration which can damage the bow. FF strings should only be used on bows that are specifically made to handle extra shock, and they definitely should not be used on older bows or bows made only of wood. Bows designed for FF strings will usually have reinforced limb tips and are made of composite materials. Olympic target shooters tend to prefer FF strings due to the flatter trajectory / increased accuracy.

Bowstring Strand Number

  • For bows up to 40 lbs, use 12 strands
  • For bows 40 to 50 lbs, use 14 strands
  • For bows 50 to 66 lbs, use 16 strands

NOTE: String silencers and bow padding are good for any bow / string set up, but they are definitely needed for D-97 and FF strings.

Bowstring Care

Caring for your bowstring is vital in traditional archery. By storing your bow in a cool, dry place you can prevent string degradation and stretching. Unstringing your bow if you don’t plan on using it for a couple months will also preserve the strength of your bow’s string and limbs. Keep your bowstring clean and apply string wax every 3 to 12 months (depending on usage) to maintain suppleness and reduce wear. Regularly inspect your bowstring for dryness and any signs of damage, such as fraying. If you notice dryness or fraying that is not very severe, all you need to do is apply wax with your fingers until it melts into the string. This should restore the string and extend its life. If you notice severe signs of damage you will need to get a new string.

Bowstring Serving

For serving material we recommend BCY Fibers. They sell quality fibers, made in the USA.

Bowstring and Serving Material Recommendations
BowstringRecommended
Center Serving*
Recommended
End Serving
Normal Strand Count
(Compound)
452XPowergrip,
62XS or Halo
3D, 2X, Halo, or Powergrip .01422/24
X-99Powergrip,
62XS or Halo
3D, 2X, Halo, or Powergrip .01428/30
MercuryPowergrip,
62XS or Halo
3D, 2X, Halo, or Powergrip .01432
8125®Powergrip,
62XS or Halo
3D, 2X, Halo, or Powergrip .01418/20
DynaFLIGHT 97 (D97)Powergrip,
62Xs, or Halo
3D, 2X, Halo, or Powergrip .01414/16
(26/28 for crossbows)
450 PlusPowergrip,
62XS or Halo
3D, 2X, Halo, or Powergrip .01412
652 Spectra/FF
(primarily recurve bows)
622S or 3D18/20
B55Polygrip400 Nylon or .014″ Powergrip12/16
Table is from http://www.bcyfibers.com/Serving.php

Nock Points

A nock point is the place where the arrow nock (the notch on the end of the arrow — opposite the arrowhead or point) should go on the bowstring when you are preparing to shoot.

Being an accurate archer means being consistent and eliminating variables that might affect your shot. One easy way to do this is to have a consistent place on your string where you nock your arrows. If you put your nock point in the right place on your bowstring it will increase accuracy and also eliminate irregularities in your arrow’s flight, such as porpoising (wobbling up and down). A nock point that is too low will result in your arrow flying above your intended mark and / or porpoising; a nock point too high will result in you arrow hitting low. Nock points will vary depending on the bow, but a general rule of thumb is to put your nock point ½ inch above the arrow rest.

(NOTE: An inch [symbolized as “] is usually divided into 16 or 8 subunits. 8/16” = 4/8” = ½”.)

Nock point measurement is always to the bottom of the nock point. With a ½” nock point the bottom of the nock will be ½” above the arrow rest, as measured on the string.

A lot of people go with 5/8” for their nock point – which is just over 1/2”, and some go with 7/16” which is just under ½ inch.

Some go as high as 3/4″ or down to ¼”. It all depends on the bow.

If you don’t know what the manufacturer recommends for your bow, we recommend starting at 1/2” for traditional bows.

If your nock point is too low your arrow will porpoise (seesaw up and down for the first several feet after it leaves the bow). Having your nock point too low is worse than having it too high, as porpoising will greatly affect accuracy (you will often shoot higher than you are aiming). If your nock point is too high you will usually notice that your groups (shot clusters) are lower than you are aiming.

(Insert video link on nock points)

Nock point recommendations for common bows:

Mandarin Duck Phantom 56” recurve: 0.5”

Samick Sage: 0.5”

Black Hunter: 9/16” or 5/8”

Primal Gear Survival Bow: 5/8″

Brace Height

Brace height, aka fistmele, refers to the distance between the bow grip’s deepest section (this is called the “throat of the riser”; see bow and arrow anatomy, figure 1) and the bowstring. Brace height is measured using a T square, also known as a bow square. To measure your bow’s brace height, start by stringing your bow (LINK TO HOW TO STRING BOW) if it is not already strung. Once strung set the crossbar part of the T square in the throat of the bow and measure to the bowstring (see picture below).

How to Adjust Brace Height

Brace height is changed by twisting or un-twisting the bowstring.

First, you will need to unstring your bow (LINK TO STRINGING BOW).

Second, you will remove the bottom loop (the smaller of the two loops) from the string notch on the bottom limb, and twist the bowstring in the direction of the serving to shorten the string (increase brace height), or un-twist opposite the direction of the serving to lengthen the bowstring (decrease brace height) [LINK TO HOW TO KNOW WHICH DIRECTION SERVING IS WOUND]. Only increase or decrease twists a few at a time.

DO NOT UNTWIST A FLEMISH STYLE BOWSTRING, AS THIS CAN RESULT IN STRING FAILURE. A FLEMISH TWIST SHOULD HAVE ONE TWIST EVERY TWO INCHES, BUT NO MORE THAN 3 PER INCH.

Lastly, once you have adjusted the number of twists in your string, restring your bow and measure your brace height again.

When putting on a new bowstring, start by twisting the bowstring 30 times in the direction of the serving.

Set your bow’s brace height according to the manufacturer’s recommendation. Periodically check your brace height, as this can fluctuate over weeks and months due to string stretch or other factors. If you do not know the manufacturer’s recommendations you can use the guide below:

  • 62- and 64-inch bows have 7½-to-8½ inch brace heights.
  • 66- and 68-inch bows have 8-to-9-inch brace heights.
  • 70- and 72-inch bows have 8¾-to-9½ inch brace heights.

Brace height affects power, accuracy, and how much noise the bow makes when it is fired. A higher brace height will reduce vibration and noise, and it increases accuracy by reducing the effects of form errors. A lower brace height will result in greater arrow velocity, more vibration / noise, and often less accuracy because it makes the bow less forgiving of form mistakes.

Twisting the bow string will only change brace height approximately 1 inch either way. If you need more change than this you will want to get a different length of bowstring.

Manufacturer brace height recommendations for common bows:

The Mandarin Duck Phantom 56” recurve should have a brace height of 6.75” to 7.5”. The company says to aim for 7″.

Brace height should 7.5″ to 8.25” on Samick Sage.

Black Hunter recurve or longbow (AMO 60″) should have a brace height of 7.5″ to 8″.

NOTE: If you can’t get your brace height close to what is needed for your bow you may have a string that is too long or too short. See THIS LINK FOR on bow strings to know what kind, and what length, of string you need for your bow.

ALL ABOUT ARROWS

The parts of an arrow

Shaft — the body of the arrow.

Nock — the part that fits onto the bowstring.

Fletchings — are the feathers or vanes that stabilize the arrow in flight and increase accuracy (see more on fletching below).

Insert — in carbon or aluminum arrows there are inserts that allow arrowheads to be screwed in.

Arrowhead / tips — the sharpened part of the arrow that makes impact with the target.

Types of arrows

Carbon — carbon fiber shafts are frequently used because they are durable and lightweight. The lightness of the material improves arrow speed. Most carbon shafts, such as the popular Gold tip traditional carbon arrows, are 6.25 mm (0.246 inches) in internal diameter. The downside of carbon fiber is that it can develop small fractures upon hard impacts; these fractures will grow with time and the arrow may break, which could cause serious injury. If your arrow strikes something hard make sure to flex it and listen / look for any signs of fracture, such as cracking noises.

Aluminum — aluminum arrows are slightly heavier than carbon arrows and less durable (they may bend), but they are less expensive.

Wood — wood arrows have some disadvantages: they are not as uniform, they can warp, and they are heavier and less durable than aluminum or carbon arrows. However, many people prefer the tradition and aesthetics of wood arrows.

Arrow Speed

Arrow speed is measured in feet per second (fps). Recurve bows typically shoot around 225 fps (150 mph). Compound bows can shoot around 300 fps (200 mph).

FLETCHINGS

Fletchings may be synthetic, such as vinyl vanes or artificial feathers, or natural, as with bird feathers. There are various different types and shapes of fletchings. See pic.

The advantages of vanes are increased durability, but feathers are less damaging on the bow and improve accuracy, since they easily bend when they contact the bow. Many traditional archers also prefer the aesthetics of feathers.

Fletching dimensions and style affect flight. Longer / wider fletchings improve stability in flight and accuracy, but they slow the arrow down and decrease range. Hunters, and those shooting long-distances often prefer smaller fletchings, trading off some stability for speed and longer range.

Fletching position is also important to consider. Helical fletchings slow arrows down more than any other style and may increase accuracy; these are not commonly used, however. Offset fletchings offer some of the advantages of the helical design while not sacrificing as much speed. Some arrow makers have found that they can increase accuracy while reducing fletching size by using offset positioning.

Recommended glues for fletching:

Krazy Glue advanced, Gorilla Glue Impact Tough (these are both rubberized cyanoacrylates that are formulated to be less brittle and resist shock).

How to remove fletchings:

If your fletchings become damaged or if you want to switch fletchings you will need to remove the old fletchings. Use a de-fletching tool (also called shaft stripper or fletching removal tool; see pic) to strip the old fletching off. Try to get as much of the fletching glue as possible. After removing the old fletchings there will usually be some remaining glue. Use sandpaper to remove any remaining glue. Sandpaper coarseness is measured by two different systems FEPA or CAMI. Use fine sandpaper — FEPA P1200 or 600 CAMI. Finally, use isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol) to clean the shaft. Now your shaft will be ready for new fletchings to be applied.

Shaft stripper / Fletching removal tool

ARROW SPINE

An arrow’s flexibility is referred to as spine. The higher the spine number, the more flexible the arrow is. 500 or 600 is a common spine choice for traditional archers shooting in the 35 to 45 pound range. More powerful bows (higher poundage) will require a stiffer arrow (lower spine), such as 300 or 400. Youth bows and other bows that are lower on the power spectrum will use 700 to 800 spine arrows.

NOCKS

Select nocks that fit your bowstring well. You will want the arrow to snap or click onto the string, so that it does not fall off the string when you hold it with the arrow facing down—however, you don’t want the fit to be so tight that it does not pull with a gentle tug.

ARROW LENGTH

To determine the correct arrow length you need you will need to measure your draw length. The easiest way to measure your draw length is to draw the bow to your usual anchor point and have someone mark where the arrow meets the back of the riser with a permanent marker. Alternatively, you can place a elastic hair tie or some yarn on your arrow so that it easily slides, then draw to your anchor point using the yarn or hair tie to mark where the arrow meets the riser. You will want your arrows to be 1 inch to 1.5 inches longer than the mark on your arrow.

If you want to get really precise about arrow spine you can use these charts at 3 Rivers Archery.

PUTTING THE STRING ON YOUR BOW

Stringing bow without stringer: Make a D (or backward D – if using left leg to step through) and step through with your right leg, use left foot to brace bottom of lower limb by stepping in front of it. Now bend the bow over your hip while maneuvering the string loop into place.

Draw weight and draw length

Archery is a complex activity, with a lot of terms and specs to wade through. But there are two you need to understand right away: draw weight and draw length.

Draw weight is simply how much force it takes to fully pull back the bowstring, expressed in pounds. Generally speaking, draw weight corresponds to the effective power of the bow.

Many states have minimum and/or maximum draw weights for hunting game because it’s unethical to hit an animal with an underpowered arrow that’s more likely to injure but not kill. Always check the laws of the state you may be taking game in to ensure that your bow is legal.

Newbies are often surprised by how hard it can be to pull back a bowstring, so don’t just assume you can handle big numbers. As a beginner, you’re better off starting off with a lighter weight and working your way up.

Complicating things is the fact that your draw length affects the draw weight.

Draw length is how far you pull back the bowstring. Draw weight is usually measured at a standard draw length of 28 inches. For each inch over that, the draw weight increases by 2.5 pounds. For each inch shorter, draw weight goes down 2.5 pounds. That’s important to keep in mind when evaluating state laws.

To determine your ideal draw length, stretch out your arms and measure from the tip of one index finger to another, then divide that by 2.5. So if the span of your arms is 70 inches, your draw length would be 28 inches.

However, when buying a takedown survival bow, draw length is a lesser concern. Most of these bows only come in one draw length, so it makes more sense to focus on draw weight, the durability of the materials, and compactness.

Bow accessories and maintenance

Beyond that, the best thing to do is take care of your bowstring. Keep an extra string in your kit, and always check your string before use. Replace it when it starts looking frayed.

To keep your bowstring in good shape for as long as possible, you need to wax it. String wax comes in a tube — like lip balm — and it works pretty much like lip balm: rub the wax on and then rub it into the string with your fingers. Do that every time the bow is used and the string will last much longer.

Speaking of saving fingers, if you carry broadheads in the field, you need a tool to safely attach and detach them from arrows. The Work Sharp Guided Field Sharpener includes a broadhead wrench and can be used to sharpen your broadheads, as well as knives and other bladed instruments in the field.

Right now I have them all set at 7/16” (on 5/3/2020 switched to ½” on Mandarin Duck black bow). USE ½ INCH – THIS IS WHAT 3 RIVERS RECOMMENDS FOR MOST TRADITIONAL BOWS.

The nock on the arrow goes below the nock point if there is just one, or in between if there are two.

COMMON BOW SPECS:

The Madarin Duck Phantom 56” recurve should have a brace height of 6.75” to 7.5”. The company says to aim for 7. The manufacturer states that the string is 53” (according to  user manual 2022).

Cheap ebay double sided rack recurve bow is 57” long; MFG says brace height should be 9.4”; bowstring length according to MFG is 52” (***HOWEVER, I WONDER IF A 54” or 53” STRING WOULD WORK BETTER SINCE IT IS GENERALLY RECOMMENDED THAT THE STRING BE 3 to 4 INCHES SHORTER THAN THE BOW); the bow weighs 750 grams. It is supposed to be 40# draw weight, but it feels much less than that.

Primal Gear Unlimited (PGU) The Compact Folding Survival bow has a draw weight of 60 lbs. at 28 inches with a 6.5 inch brace height. It weighs in at a total 2.5 pond overall weight, and purposefully propels arrows accurately toward the intended target at velocities of 170 to 180 feet per second.

String length for Black Hunter is 57”

Phantom specs:

MODELPhantom
HAND ORIENTATIONRight Handed
DRAW WEIGHT (LBS.) AT 28″20lb, 25lb, 30lb, 35lb, 40lb, 45lb, 50lb
MAX DRAW LENGTH (IN.)30
OVERALL LENGTH (IN.)56
BRACE HEIGHT7″ ~ 7-3/4″
ARROW WEIGHT (GPP)8 – 10
SHELF1/4″ cut past center
TILLER0″
COLORBlack

Shooting Your Bow

Anchor Point

The anchor point refers to the point on your body where you draw the bowstring to. Having a consistent anchor point that you touch with your bowstring or your fingers, just like having a consistent nock point, will increase your accuracy. Common anchor points are the cheekbone, corner of mouth / lip, or chin. Practice and experimentation will help you figure out what the best anchor point is for you.